High Volume Craft Cocktails: Oxymoron or Mad Money???

As a beverage consultant, I am frequently asked to design craft cocktail lists for high volume establishments. Every day I am approached by major corporations and smaller restaurateurs/bar owners who want to remain competitive in the mist of the global cocktail revolution. The biggest myth in the industry is that great craft cocktails take longer to make than the classics. For high volume restaurants, bars and resorts the prevailing perception is that you must sacrifice quality in order to maintain quantity. However, there is a financially viable solution. When properly executed, even the busiest restaurants can keep up with demand while delivering fantastic tasting quality craft cocktails every single time.

The key is to successfully execute a two part program which may initially sound obvious, but very few bars in my experience actually take the time to implement each part properly and therefore fail at both. The first part of the program is Mise en place (meaning- putting in place). Mise en place is simply making sure that you have all of the glassware, ingredients, garnishes, and bar tools set up in a logical, ergonomic fashion so that they are easily accessible when you need to quickly assemble recipes specifically from your cocktail list. This requires some forethought and planning on behalf of the bar staff and management. A lot of the higher-end craft cocktail lounges use cheater bottles on their bar filled with syrups, tonics and tinctures, but also base spirits and modifying spirits required to make every craft cocktail on their list. This way the bartender doesn’t have to constantly scramble throughout the shift to find this bottle or that ingredient.

The idea is to have everything you need to make every cocktail on your list within arm’s reach. This is not always possible depending on your bar layout, but time is money and spending the extra time to make sure the bar is set up for success can tip the scale in favor of profitability and happy consumers. If space permits, it is also a wise idea to have all the ingredients for the top ten most commonly ordered classics available at arm’s reach as well.

The other component of a successful high volume craft cocktail program, Pre-batching, is a little more controversial. The purest will scream that every component MUST be assembled in front of the guest in order to ensure that the integrity of each cocktail is at its freshest and optimal balance… and while I agree that this is ideal, if you pre-batch using the following rules, you can crank out craft cocktails all night long in a fast and efficient manner while still maintaining balance and quality standards for every cocktail served:

Pre-batching Boozy Drinks-If you have cocktails on your list that are entirely composed of multiple liquors and/or liqueurs, with no mixers (non-alcoholic components), there is nothing wrong with simply blending all the ingredients together in the proper proportions to make one huge balanced cocktail and then filling up an empty bottle(s) with that cocktail to use as needed.  Of course, those cocktails will need to be chilled and diluted upon being ordered (many state laws prohibit serving alcohol unless poured from the original container, however this is rarely enforced and is on the books to keep unscrupulous bar owners from watering down booze or replacing the good stuff with poor quality distillates).

If you do decide to pre-batch multiple liquors, the bottle should be labeled and dated with the name of the cocktail so that the entire bar staff is on the same page. The advantage to pre-batching is that you can taste the drink for balance in advance and the bar staff doesn’t have to waste time grabbing multiple bottles and measuring each pour according to the recipe. The only downside is that the guests don’t get to see you pouring the individual brands required to make the drink. However, in a high volume restaurant with a back bar sending drinks to tables or serving to large parties/functions, this is not an issue.

Pre-batching Citrus Juices-The Italians say that fresh squeezed citrus is golden in the morning, silver in the afternoon and bronze in the evening. In other words, the longer your fresh juices are exposed to air, the more oxidized (and subsequently bitter) they become. While I am a die-hard proponent of freshly squeezed juices a-la-minute (on the spot) I advocate pre-squeezing fresh juices in volume to get through the busiest parts of the day while business is cranking. Citrus should never be added to the alcoholic components of the cocktail in advance.

Lemon, lime and grapefruit juices only keeps for one day at the most. Fresh orange and pineapple juice have enough residual sugars to keep for several days. If you end up with too much fresh juice being thrown out at the end of the night, cut back on your pars but DO throw it out (or give to the kitchen). It is important to anticipate business and then create pars, but note that a lazy barman will always order more juice than required, the solution for that is to have your bartenders squeezing all their own juices at the beginning of the day.

Ideally, by the end of the night when things slow down, the bartenders should have run out of the pre-squeezed juices and should be squeezing fresh juice per drink ordered. I tell my high volume clients to either pre-mix all the alcoholic components and squeeze fresh juice in front of the guest OR pre-mix the liquor in advance and then add pre-squeezed juice while preparing the drink.  If you decide to go the later route, just remember the aforementioned Italian saying about citrus juices.  Make sure to taste each cocktail for balance and don’t be surprised to find that you are adding a little bit more sugar syrup toward the end of the day than at the beginning to balance out oxidized juices.

Pre-batching Carbonation- Every new bartender learns the hard way to never shake carbonated drinks. It sounds obvious but almost every newbie has to get soaking wet at least once before the lesson sinks in. The same principle holds true for pre-batching carbonated drinks. Don’t do it. Common sense tells you that the drink will lose the bubbles throughout the day. Once you add carbonation you can no longer shake the cocktail which means you either have to stir or tumble roll to get the proper dilution. Carbonated ingredients are always added after the cocktail has been chilled and diluted. Only then add carbonation, tumble rolled once to mix the ingredient throughout, garnish and serve.

Pre-batching Mixers- There is a lot of mixed drinks that have non-alcoholic mixers added to them. Many of those mixers have a fizzy component to them (i.e. coke, sprite, club soda), in which case simply follow the rules for carbonated drinks above, however for all other mixers, specific rules apply.  The biggest concern with pre-batching mixers with liquor in advance is if the non-alcoholic ingredient(s) are perishable or have an expiration date. Wine, vermouth, dry sherry and dairy products should only be added only at the time the drink is made. The same is true for cocktails requiring eggs or egg whites. For other drinks that have non-alcoholic ingredients that are not perishable (i.e. water, sugars, spices, etc.), these ingredients can be added to liquor(s) in advance and will keep indefinitely if stored properly. Herbs can also be added in advance for infusions but must be removed once the oils are extracted but before the mix becomes bitter.

The bottoms line is that craft cocktails are good for the bottom line. Pre-batching tends to get a bad rap, but when done properly can produce high quality and highly lucrative drinks. Of course, it’s always a good idea to hire a professional mixologist to create the menu and teach the staff how to properly execute. Once you’re are up and going, mis en place ensures speed and pre-batching guarantees consistency. The beauty of well made craft cocktails is that the bartender’s check averages go up, the house’s liquor costs go down and most importantly, the guest gets a better experience. Win, win, win!!

2015: The Year of the Cannabis Cocktail?

Twenty-three states and the District of Columbia now have laws on the books legalizing marijuana in some form or another. Four of those states allow the use of marijuana for recreational purposes (Colorado, Washington, Oregon and Alaska). So it should come as no surprise then that many bartenders are legally experimenting with cannabis in cocktails.
First, let me say, that I am not one of them. Not because I’m a prude and not because I live in a state where pot is only approved for medical purposes. Let me be blunt… er, clear: My drug of choice is alcohol which I choose to drink in moderation and responsibly. However, I recognize that many of my clients do smoke pot (legally). They frequently ask me to keep them appraised of the latest trends and design cocktail programs that cater to their clientele.
In that vein, I’ve recently discovered that an Israel scientist has bred a strain of marijuana that has virtually none of the active ingredient tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and is therefore a good choice for mixologists like myself that want to work with the flavor without the high. Even if my clients choose to use the psychoactive stuff, at least I can present recipes that I have personally tested without getting the munchies (of course if I was a bar owner, serving cocktails that drive food sales is a phenomenal idea!).
The tide is turning and mixologists need to recognize that we have a new flavor profile in our selection of fresh herbs or get stoned (pun intended). There can be no doubt that pot has a distinct, if not pleasant odor. And while the flavor may be more nostalgic than tasty for some, when balanced in a craft cocktail the results can be quite satisfying.
The concept of marijuana flavored drinks is hardly new. There are numerous soft-drinks, colas even energy drinks with cannabis as an ingredient (the ultimate oxymoron). Dani Tatarin of The Keefer Bar in Vancouver, BC has been experimenting with cannabis infused spirits for years. I spoke to her in 2008 about infusing spirits with flavor by cooking them sous-vide (underwater) thereby extracting all the flavor without cooking off the ethanol.
When I next saw her she had infused marijuana into neutral grain spirit using that method. According to Dani, the THC is felt immediately when consumed in booze. This makes sense since ethanol is a solvent and literally strips away the oils and resin in the leaf where much of the psychoactive properties are found.
By the same principle, the easiest way to extract flavor (and THC) is to simply infuse a spirit by adding fresh cannabis leaves and letting it rest for 24-48 hours. Maceration is faster, by muddling leaves like mint in a mojito, you can extract the flavor and still get baked. Compounding straight THC in a liquid form is perhaps quickest but not recommended. As a mixologist, I only advocate fresh ingredients. Plus, the liquid form is only available to the states where it can be consumed recreationally. Since I always taste my cocktails for balance, playing around with the proper proportions can prove to be a less than sobering experience.
With the explosions of micro distilleries in the USA, it is simply a matter of time before someone makes a commercially viable base spirit infused with marijuana through distillation. As it is, there are pot-absinthes available in Amsterdam. Other weed friendly nations have a variety of copper pot distilled pot-infused liquors.
When designing original recipes, because of its herbaceous flavor, I suggest that weed is best paired with Blanco tequilas, aggressive gins, white rums or neutral vodkas (the latter if you want to emphasis marijuana as the dominant flavor profile). Here is an unteste recipe… if you live in one of those legal states, give it a go and let me know your feedback:

CANNABIS COCKTAIL
1.25 oz. Cannabis infused 100% Agave Highland Blanco Tequila
.25 oz. Pechuga Mezcal
.75 oz. Beet Sugar Simple Syrup
.50 oz. Fresh Lime Juice
3 dashes of Celery Bitters
1 Egg white

Garnish:
Black lava salt 1/2 rim served with a small sized bag of Fritos on the side

Glassware:
Martini Glass or Cocktail Coup

Method:
Infused freshly cut cannabis leaves (8-10) into a quality Blanco tequila for 24-48 hrs, place all ingredients into mixing tin, add large ice, shake vigorously, taste for balance, double strain into glass, garnish and serve.

Until our next cocktail together…

Bottoms up!

Bartender! A Mojito Please… and Don’t Be Bitter!!

I’ve never been a fan of things floating throughout my cocktail. Not seeds, pulp, flowers or leaves. For me it’s a texture thing. That is not to say I don’t appreciate a beautiful garnish in my cocktail in so long as it serves a purpose and doesn’t impede my enjoyment of the drink. However, some cocktails actually call for leaves and pulp in the drink… Enter the Mojito.

The Mojito is the number three ordered drink in North America (following the Margarita and Cosmopolitan). Consumers love it and bartenders complain about making it. Like any cocktail, when properly balanced with fresh ingredients, it truly is a wonderful libation. The original Mojito was made with fresh lime juice, light rum, sugar, club soda and mint leaves in the drink. As the former barman of Per Se restaurant I always took care to remove the leaves from mine. And here is why…

1) DON’T GET TEA’D OFF- Just like Mint tea if you leave freshly muddled (or steeped) leaves in your drink too long, it gets bitter. The idea is to thoroughly muddle the leaves so that they turned a dark green and release their oils. Then shake your drink and double strain over fresh ice. You retain all of the aromatics and flavor but none of the bitter finish.

2) THE FUZZ WILL BRING YOU DOWN- Mint leaves, while they smell awesome and taste even better, have a fuzzy almost furry surface. If you’ve ever chewed on a fresh mint leaf, it is not only bitter, but it tends to give you the heebie-jeebies as your body shivers from the texture.

3) MINT DOESN’T SUCK- Have you ever been sipping on a lovely Mojito only to get a big piece of mint stuck in the straw? It’s a little bit like trying to suck a bowling ball through a garden hose. Despite your best efforts, there is no graceful or subtle way to clear your straw without drawing attention. Usually, we end up plucking the straw out and just sipping on our drink, which means were back to chewing on mint leaves.

4) GET THE GIRL- Picture yourself at a bar, a tall, cool glass of sunshine steps up to the bar. Thinking quickly, you decide to make your move. You raise your Mojito and give her your best toothy smile, only to have her look at you in disgust and walk out of your life forever… If only you knew about the big green leaf stuck between your teeth. Sigh!

5) I LOVE A GOOD SPANKING- One argument for leaving the leaves in your drink is because they smell so good. However, if you simply slap (or spank) a fresh sprig of mint between your hands and garnish the drink with it, you will smell intense mint without the aforementioned issues.
Now, the purists will insist that it’s not a true Mojito unless there are leaves in the drink. And perhaps they are right. Personally, I would rather have a great tasting, properly made drink than stick to a recipe simply for the namesake. Plus, there is no reason you can’t take a beautiful, fresh sprig of un-muddled mint and perch it on your glass at two o’clock. I will look amazing, smells amazing and if properly balanced, be the best tasting Mojito you’ve ever tried. Make one and let me know…

In the words of my mentor and former employer Chef Thomas Keller: “When in doubt, strain it out!”